There’s a side of Florence that doesn’t reveal itself right away. It lies just across the river, waiting to be discovered.
Locals call it “Diladdarno”, meaning “on the other side of the Arno”—far from the Duomo, Piazza della Signoria, and the busy crowds of the historic center.
And it’s here, in the Oltrarno, where Florence’s most authentic soul lives and breathes.
A neighborhood to live, not just visit
Walking through the Oltrarno is a different kind of experience. The streets are narrower, the noise is softer, and the pace is slower.
This is where “real” Florentines live, where daily life happens between local shops, workshops, and small piazzas.
Here, craftsmanship is still very much alive: leather workers, goldsmiths, carpenters, ceramicists — all sharing space with young creatives and contemporary artisans.
Every doorway could hide something beautiful: a quiet courtyard, a traditional bakery, a tiny art gallery.
Where to go, what to see
From hu Firenze Certosa camping in town, it’s a short trip to reach this part of town. Just pass Porta Romana and walk alongside the Boboli Gardens, and you’ll find yourself in the heart of the Oltrarno. Here’s where to start:
• Via Maggio & Via dei Serragli
Great for vintage lovers and antique treasure hunters. You’ll feel like time has slowed down here, with long-standing shops and storied storefronts.
• Piazza Santo Spirito
The social heart of the neighborhood. Quiet and peaceful by day — ideal for a coffee in the shade of the church — and lively by night.
When the sun goes down, locals, students and travelers gather in the square, the bars fill up, and the nightlife lights up.
• Boboli Gardens
A peaceful green retreat filled with statues, fountains, and incredible city views. A true open-air museum behind Palazzo Pitti, offering nature, history and space to breathe.
• Local trattorias
This is where you eat like a local. Honest food, hearty portions, and tradition in every bite. From ribollita to pappa al pomodoro and the iconic Florentine steak, every trattoria has its own twist.
Tip: let your nose guide you.
Boboli
One last tip: get lost
Yes, really. Don’t follow a map. Turn left instead of right. Wander down streets without names.
That’s how you discover the Oltrarno: by slowing down, letting your curiosity lead, and stumbling upon unexpected corners, hidden courtyards, and moments of stillness.
This side of Florence won’t call your name — it waits for you to find it.
Coming home to the green
After a day of walking through piazzas, shops and trattorias, there’s only one thing better than exploring the Oltrarno: returning to the peace of the campsite, surrounded by olive trees and the quiet hills of Galluzzo.
Close to the city, but already in another world.
